Information About Stephanotis


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Stephanotis Plant Care: Growing And Caring For Stephanotis Flowers

By Jackie Rhoades

Stephanotis flowers have long been treasured for their beauty and sweet scent. The tropical twining vine are a traditional element in wedding bouquets. Learn how to grow your own in this article.

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Spathiphyllum, the “peace lily”

You’re the proud owner of a Spathiphyllum and you wish to make this marvelous indoor plant last.

Main Spathiphyllum facts

NameSpathiphyllum hybrid
FamilyAraceae
Type – indoor plant

Height – 1 ⅓-3 feet (0.5-1 meter) indoors
Exposure – well-lit
Soil – soil mix

Foliage – evergreen
Flowering – May to October

Here are our tips on how to care, plant and repot, water and fertilize as well as where it should be set up.


Stephanotis Species, Bridal Wreath, Hawaiian Wedding Flower, Madagascar Jasmine

Family: Apocynaceae (a-pos-ih-NAY-see-ee) (Info)
Genus: Stephanotis (stef-ah-NO-tis) (Info)
Species: floribunda (flor-ih-BUN-duh) (Info)
Synonym:Asclepias odoratissima
Synonym:Ceropegia stephanotis
Synonym:Isaura alliacea
Synonym:Marsdenia floribunda
Synonym:Stephanotis isaura

Category:

Tropicals and Tender Perennials

Water Requirements:

Average Water Needs Water regularly do not overwater

Sun Exposure:

Foliage:

Foliage Color:

Height:

Spacing:

Hardiness:

USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 °C (30 °F)

USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 °C (35 °F)

USDA Zone 11: above 4.5 °C (40 °F)

Where to Grow:

Suitable for growing in containers

Danger:

Bloom Color:

Bloom Characteristics:

Bloom Size:

Bloom Time:

Other details:

Soil pH requirements:

Patent Information:

Propagation Methods:

From semi-hardwood cuttings

From seed sow indoors before last frost

Seed Collecting:

Allow pods to dry on plant break open to collect seeds

Regional

This plant is said to grow outdoors in the following regions:

CARDIFF BY THE SEA, California

Harbison Canyon, California

Los Angeles, California(2 reports)

Martinez, California(2 reports)

Rancho Palos Verdes, California

Rancho San Diego, California

San Diego, California(2 reports)

South Pasadena, California

Altamonte Springs, Florida

Fort Lauderdale, Florida(2 reports)

North Port, Florida(2 reports)

Mount Bethel, Pennsylvania

Gardeners' Notes:

On Apr 26, 2015, Gardenrox from London,
United Kingdom wrote:

Got it as a present in a 5 inch pot trained in a semicircle to a firm wire. I placed it in a window with half day sun and kept the soil moist and a few days later the leaves turned yellow and all fell off except for 2 at the top. Maybe it was wrong to keep the soil moist? How much water exactly and how often are you supposed to water it? how can i save what remains of it?
I have a very sunny window that will get warm/ hot in the summer or a north window that is cooler. Where should she go? What about feeding.?
Please give me any tips I am a total beginner. The plant is from my son's fiancee so i cant fail with it. She comes back here often and will see my disaster. I have already bought another one to replace the one she gave me so i am starting again with the new one. read more , but also trying to save the old one. Any advice welcome. Please help. Thank you.

On Aug 15, 2014, LucasRountree from Houston, TX wrote:

Beautiful vine. Does very well in Houston. (loves the high humidity, heat, sun and excellent soil) I have two plants climbing up giant ligustrums. One is in the earth and the other is potted. Both do very well spiraling their tendrils together and snaking up the trees.

The potted vine, although very active-- it's in direct sun-- doesn't like being potted, insomuch as i can tell. It's older leaves are yellower than earth-bound vine. However, it grows very well and is very healthy: good water helps (rain, distilled and filtered- anything that isn't city water).

The potted vine seems very prone to powdery mildew, and so I use neem oil to correct it and it seems to work very well.

On May 28, 2014, Mildcat from Escondido, CA (Zone 10a) wrote:

I've had a stephanotis in a smallish (maybe 4-gal) ceramic pot for the past 12 years. It was growing up a metal fence on a west-facing patio, but we moved last year and it is now in a similar patio position in our new house, having been cut back to about five feet when we moved in November. It has already produced several of the mango-sized fruits from last year's flowers, and is covered in buds which are just starting to bloom now, in late May. In my experience this plant is amazingly hardy. We had one freak frost when it died back to the root, and the following season it came roaring back. Contrary to what some have said, I have found it flourishes in this small pot as long as it has sufficient water. I would say it grows to about 30 feet (from my little pot!), not 15 as the desc. read more ription here says. Blooms for months on end fabulous scent to breathe in while sipping a glass of wine and contemplating the garden. Only possible negative would be that the flowers drop off (well,they would, wouldn't they?) but the small effort of tidying them up off the patio every day or so is trivial compared to the joy this plant gives me.

On Nov 13, 2013, GabiF from Newcastle NSW,
Australia wrote:

I notice you have changed the format somewhat. I was a financial member and couldn't afford to renew membership, but I miss this place so much. All seems well so far.

I have a real problem with my Stephanotis and need help. I planted her in a pot up against the Slatted wall that hides my Aircon, Gas bottles and Garbage bins. She loved it and has been happy there for about 3 years. I did not realise her pot was slowly sinking into the gravel bed underneath! Several times I noticed that the pot was overflowing and now she has wilted.
We pulled the pot out of the ground, drained her and now have her perched well above the ground. Sprayed the leaves and a really good display of flowers, with a weak solution of Seaweed solution (called Seasol, here) - can I save he. read more r? Please help me, if you can.

My garden is a joy but at the same time, very difficult these days as the back and feet are giving me curry but I'm not alone in that, am I?

I always liked to collect unusual things and Stepanotis (normally) grows like a weed here. I am really part of the City of Lake Macquarie about 40 kg south of Newcastle. But no-one thinks of the lake as a city, needs more advertising. I hope to renew old frienships!
Gabi

On Sep 30, 2010, boomboer from Cape Town,
South Africa wrote:

This is a wonderful, wonderful plant.
It will thrive under the following conditions: It loves a rich, well draining soil with lots of organic material. A medium made up of potting soil with some well rotted compost (earth worms & all if you can get it) and bonemeal worked in is ideal. I planted mine in a big pot since my garden soil is too loamy. Ensure the pot drains well by placing gravel at the bottom before adding the soil mix.
Cover the top of the soil with a stone/bark mulch to keep the soil from drying and the temperature more even. I also planted some Echeverias in my pot - they keep the soil cool and moist and take up excess water.
This is a tropical vine that loves its roots cool and its leaves hot and humid - it actually climbs better if not planted straigh. read more t into an all day full sun position. Morning sun in hot areas is ideal for instance under a pergola/porch. This will also prevent frost damage - an obvious no-no for most tropicals.
Some compost tea/organic fertilizer/kelp extract every three weaks or so in summer will help the flowering along.
This sounds like a lot, but the flowers are so worth it. If effort is not for you - rather get some rosemary bushes going.

On Jul 13, 2009, khabbab from lahore,
Pakistan (Zone 10b) wrote:

I bought it as a small plant 3 inched high from a nursery. It has reached 12 feet high but no blooms yet. It has survived our summers of over 100F here. how can i make it bloom?. i have planted it in my soil bed where other vines are blooming fine. Maybe it is not mature enough to bloom. It is in full sun.

I just bought a variegated one, this is my third try. The first one did well until a freak frost, the second one didn't make it through the summer! Rather than trellis, I plan to hang it and let it do it's own thing. I'm hopeful. I love the flowers and scent, so I'm not giving up. I bought all of them around the same time, late spring and believe I've had them in a good spot. I will let you know how it goes, wish me luck.

On May 14, 2009, ejanelli from San Francisco, CA wrote:

The plant grows beautifully. All you have to do is recognize it's needs and treat it appropriately.

The two negative comments do nothing except show that the writers think of plants as furniture rather than as living things with specific rquirements - just like people.

Yes, the plant is frost tender and needs the right amount of light along with water and nutrients if it's going to prosper and bloom. And no plant that climbs by twining, which it does, is going to wrap itself around a pillar or column just because someone wants it to. That is simply not possible with the mechanism that twining plants use. The dimension of the object one wants the plant to climb must be small enough, usually up to an inch or so. And if the wire or rod is in hot sun the pl. read more ant can't climb it because it will be cooked (literally) as it tries. Also, if you want a plant to climb a trellis the trellis must have the proper light level or the plant is going to shun it and reach out to the light.

Really, people, it takes more than arrogance and willfulness.

On Sep 30, 2008, perfectpitch from Santee, CA wrote:

I bought 2 of these plants at the beginning of the summer from our local plant store. I took them home and put them in the ground on the east side of my house where it gets morning sun till about noon. I put a wire trellis behind them. Within days I noticed the plant starting to take off. I had buds within 2 weeks. The other day I noticed a seed pod behind the trellis. It looks kind of like a small avocado. The vines are wrapping itself around the trellis very nicely. I'm hoping it will survive the winter months out here in Santee where it gets down into the low 30's.

On Aug 6, 2008, eozjr from Glasgow,
United Kingdom wrote:

My gran used to grow this indoors in Yorkshire when I was young and I always said I would have it as part of my wedding bouquet. I ordered my bouquet 20 or so years later but the florist had never heard of it!! (I live in Scotland now) I found one in a supermarket in flower and bought it three weeks before the wedding. All the flowers fell off. So I bought another, the flowers lasted all summer except the ones I pulled off for my bouquet. Both plants are still going strong one year later and one of them is in flower. I don't do much with them, except dust the leaves occasionally and give them a little water, they are either side of my fireplace (the fire is never on) and they get the evening sun through the window. I love them, they remind my of my gran and my wedding. What more . read more can you want?

On Jun 15, 2008, goofybulb from Richland, MI (Zone 5b) wrote:

I've started Stephanotis floribunda from seed late October 2007, and I've been keeping the seedlings outside at all times ever since they sprouted. We've had a few very cold nights for Miami (low 50s), and I've forgot to bring them in. They didn't mind, and they continued to grow. I don't have them flower yet, but the leaves themselves are quite beautiful. I'm hoping for blooms soon.

On Jun 14, 2008, shoopic from Maurepas, LA wrote:

I ordered this baby from a magazine and the day it came in my husband and I both missed the mail notice and this was on a friday so we didn't get to pick it up until the monday, there it was dried and looking very dead, it lost all but one of it's leaves and that was 3 years ago and the plant has traveled all around the country with me,(my husband was in cunstruction and we traveled 6 months out of the year) I took this plant in a small pot with a make-shift trellis every where and now it is at least 9 feet tall loaded with flowers and it is beautiful, I just picked my first seed pod and I have all the seeds and I will try and grow one from them, I also started another one last year from a cutting that I broke off and it is 3 feet tall and it has already bloomed, I keep them both outside w. read more here they get the morning sun and I have to water the older plant twice daily because it is root bound but I cant stand the thought of cutting it back. I wintered the older one in my husbands tool shed and bringing it out on warm and sunny days and the other one in my flower shed with an ott light and only watering them about every other week, I must be doing something right cause they are doing great.

On Mar 20, 2008, colleenmd from San Antonio, TX wrote:

About two years ago, I was given this plant by a neighbor who was moving. I took it out of a bed and planted it in a large pot with a metal trellis, it has bloomed each late summer since. It does well inside during the winter here and has been getting water about once every week or so. She was an experiment that I'm very happy with! I had new growth here about Nov/Dec (inside) and I just wind the vines back onto the trellis and she just keeps going and going. I am in love with the scent and can't wait for flowers!

On Feb 3, 2008, CindyMzone5 from Hobart, IN wrote:

I'm a new member here in NW IN and started my steph from T&M seed several years ago. Knowing it's not hardy, have always brought it indoors late fall. I had read somewhere early on that this plant likes to be pot-bound. The multiple branches are around 8 ft, circling a home-made round copper ring. Checking out all of the comments (thank you very much) because mine has never bloomed, I've discovered that it needs a bigger pot and more sun than my shady back yard in summer. I tried overwintering this year in my new little lean-to greenhouse, heated with a non-vented propane heater and sometimes electric heat if the weather is warmer. This plant does not like the propane heater. 80% of the leaves turned yellow during a period of frigid temps and continual propane heat. I maintain a coo. read more l greenhouse so mid-50's is as low as it gets in there. Now planning to repot, cut back and hope for flowers.

On Sep 13, 2007, growinggal from Elk Grove, CA wrote:

I just bought a Madagascar Jasmine for my USDA zone 8 Western Gardener zone 14. I live in Sacramento, CA. I'm trying it on the policy of my nursery - - lifetime guarantees. I'm going to try it on the north side of my house under eves in the ground. The only frost protection will be the warmth of the house. Has anyone in this zone been successful with this plant?

On Aug 11, 2007, goatroper from Spokane, WA (Zone 6a) wrote:

I absolutely LOVE this plant! I bought it in a small pot and transplanted it into a large patio pot with Miracle Grow Potting soil. I've placed it on our west facing patio in a full sun location and it's doing great. I water it every night because we've had a lot of 90 degree weather recently and have noticed some yellow leaves at the bottom of the plant that have fallen off. This usually indicates too much water, so I'm going to back off to every other day and see what happens. It's blooming and having a great time on the patio. I might move it into a shadier location later but for now it seems to be doing great. It is sending tenderals everywhere and I'm thinking I might want to provide it with a much bigger support to climb on. The flowers smell absolutely fantastic! I've taken. read more several pictures of it and have posted one on this site. The picture was taken in the dark with a digital camera and flash.

On Jul 11, 2007, stenmoore from Santa Barbara, CA wrote:

does anyone have photos of what an unpollinated madagascar jasmine looks like? does it not have flowers at all or is there a flower spur but now white flower?

On Feb 21, 2007, fabooj from Los Angeles, CA (Zone 10b) wrote:

I bought this plant in Jan. '02 and it's been nothing, but an absolute pain. I haven't had a single bloom on it since May '02. It's a very tempermental, overly-sensitive plant and I don't like high maintenance in my life.

This plant first went into shock in July '02. I had moved it from the front to the back of the apt. and quickly back to the front because it was pure sun out there. For about 8 months, it was a brown sad little mess. Then it turned green. Yay! In May '03 it went into shock again, and I have no idea why. I feed and water that thing with no real payoff. Then all of a sudden in Nov. '04 it just started growing. Not filling out, no matter how much I pinched or pruned. It would easy grow 4 inches in a day. Up, up, up went the one lonely tendril with. read more it's random leaf pairs.

Everything was going fine until the record freezing recently in SoCal. Now it's a brown, sad plant. I water it, and will be fertilizing it soon, but I'm ready to just toss it out.

On Jan 10, 2007, passiflorakid from cardiff,
United Kingdom (Zone 9b) wrote:

I love this plant so much! I have about three in 6in pots and I have cut back two to about 5.5 inches ( is this o.k?) because of yellowing leaves. The other on that I have had for approx 1 year has thrived! I am in the U.K so this plant is not hardy enough for outside. Is there any way to force it to flower/make new growth as mine is rather slow growing. One problem is that once the buds swell and open they only open halfway! and only one or two actually fully open, plz help.

On Aug 3, 2006, Yorkshire_Lass from Ripon,
United Kingdom wrote:

I have just identified my plant here on your site. I have bought it (and 2 other jasmines) and planted them in a large planter on our apartment terrace wall in Los Cristianos, Tenerife. I am hoping my neighbour will look after it until I return. I did not know what the large pod was but have learnt much from your site. I am hoping I can train it up and over the wall filling the warm night air with fragrance. I will watch the watering as suggested by you all. Wish me luck - this would never grow here in Yorkshire - in or out of doors!!

On Aug 2, 2006, Lmozr from Florissant, MO wrote:

I've had my stephanotis since May and just recently noticed a seed pod that is growing pretty quickly. Can I plant the seeds from this after it is dried ? Any tips would be greatly appreciated as I am new to this plant. Thanks!

On Jul 21, 2006, BayAreaTropics from Hayward, CA wrote:

All this plants asks is to give it root room,part sun,moderate temps,and never let go dry. Mine was waaay underpotted in a gallon container.This year i put it in a five gallon pot and let it twine around a antique bird cage stand.It's making a very attractive wreath shape.
2016: Its been planted in ground for years now. A moderate grower,flowers start around late July in the bay area for me.
A good small scale vine for a light trellis.

On Jul 15, 2006, hmacgr from Schoharie, NY (Zone 5a) wrote:

I'm a florist by trade but a gardener at heart and as such end up with all the unwanted plants from our holiday sales. This plant came to my orphanage 3 years ago as a small 6" circle trellis. It goes outside somewhere around May and is usually back in the house by the begining of October. Every year it has become more vigorus (and naughty). It actually tried to take the crown molding down in my living room this spring when it woke-up! Great plant. Amazing scent. Two big thumbs-up from me.

On Mar 20, 2006, Wifeygirl from (Caitlin) Fresno, CA (Zone 9b) wrote:

Hi guys. I planted three of these stephanotis vines last summer in the LA area, and have also observed three others that were planted at my work. I planted mine to climb up a trellis, but the plant really doesn't like to cling to a trellis or other support. Instead it uses the support as a launching point to stick its feelers straight out in the air. The vines at my work are planted against pillars, and the gardeners obviously planned for the vines to wrap around the pillars. However, they really aren't that kind of vine. Instead they ended up with bushy vines that they had to fasten to the pillars, and the vines are all sticking straight out from the pillars. So beware, this vine does not like to cling to the shape of your trellis or support.

On Jun 28, 2005, FishMang from Grant Valkaria, FL (Zone 9b) wrote:

I'm a newcomer to this sensual vine. I purchased it in late March, at Valkaria Botanical Gardens just south of Palm Bay, Florida I just repotted it in to a 5 gallon pot, with a trellis, as it has already outgrown the 2 gal pot it came in. The plant is starting it's second blooming cycle since I got it and it's wonderful scent fills the yard. I will most likely keep it potted, as we are subject to get a freeze every few years. If I am fortunate enough to get seeds I will see just how much cold this plant can take.

On Apr 25, 2005, blackthumbX2 from Hilo, HI (Zone 11) wrote:

When I purchased this home a few months ago I inherited this 20 year old Stephanotis plant which has overgrown approximately 60 feet of a chain link fence which surrounds my half-acre property in Hilo, Hawaii. The blooms are gorgeous and fragrant. There are numerous seed pods. However, in this tropical climate and allowed uncontrolled growth there are miles of woody vine with no green on the backside of the fence. the side I view from the house. I hate looking at it, but I can't stand the thought of cutting it down. so beware you Hawaii (tropical) planters. keep it under contol.

Update: We methodically began pruning dead wood, and have successfuly sculpted a portion of the vine into a beautiful hedge. Before and after pictures will follow.

On Apr 22, 2005, TropicalLover21 from Santa Maria, CA (Zone 10a) wrote:

I really really like this plant, although ive never smelled the blooms.. Wanna know why? Well its been doing so so here. I have it inside, in a sunny window, because outside it is a little too cold for it. It was kinda bushy when i first bought it, and expensive too, now its seemed to lose some leaves that turned yellow and fell off. I am guessing it likes a Hawaii type place.. Well other than that i really love it, and am trying everything i can to make it grow and bloom. If you live in Los Angeles it will do fine there, i live close to LA and seen it there outside on fences and peoples front porches, and its doing well. Wish i lived in LA sometimes! :O(

Man this vine died on me! I guess it didnt like to be re-planted, but the soil it was in . read more held tooo much water.. well anyways, i guess this plant is ok if you live in Los Angeles, or in Hawii. Other than that, i am unsure.

On Feb 12, 2005, Idahoan from Boise, ID (Zone 6a) wrote:

In Zone 6 the Stephanotis is a summer patio plant. It does tend to attract ants and scale during the winter months in the house. However, a white vinegar circle around the pot between rainstorms takes care of the ants and alcohol and Q-tips take care of the scale.

I have had the steph for over 5 years. In previous home in Santa Clara, CA it wintered over in the greenhouse. All I ever did was trim it back in the spring and transfer it to an ever larger pot. It is now in a 20" pot about 2 feet high. It climbs on a trellis that is 4 feet wide and 5 feet high. When it is time to change the trellis, I cut the plant back a bit and unwind the branches, insert new trellis and wind the plant around the wood.

Last spring I had to cut the plant back to fit in a U. read more -Haul trailer and I was afraid that I was going to stunt it's growth and lose the flowers. WRONG! Steph did her thing and threw out more new growth than she ever had and was a mass of white blooms for the majority of the summer.

I talked to a florist friend who had a huge stephanotis in their shop that always seemed to be in bloom and I asked her how she did it. In late winter (February) she cut it back and fed it with 1/2 strength VF-11 weekly. By the middle of March the plant was totally covered with new growth and flowers. Apparently her secret was to cut it back and feed it.

Hope this helps anyone that wants to over-winter a plant in the house. Mine will be getting a cut-back this week.

On Jan 19, 2005, marytor from Torrance, CA wrote:

I would also like to add that the flowers are very long-lived. It also looks very attractive to have a maroon colored clematis climbing throughout. ahh!

On Nov 24, 2004, Julia_T from Northern, VA (Zone 7a) wrote:

I started two plants from seed this spring, under flourescent lights, in ProMix. In mid-May I hardened them off, then transplanted them to my west-facing (sun) garden, zone 7a. They grew a bit in the summer, next to my soaker hose and sheltered by a very dense canopy of lablab purpurea. In Sept. I potted them and brought them inside. They are still small, but perking up and greener now that I've started parking them about 3" from a flourescent kitchen light at night. There is a bit of stippling and curling on some leaves. No apparent pests, though.

On Jul 2, 2004, punaheledp from Kailua, HI (Zone 11) wrote:

Zone 11, hawaii. have always loved this vine. grew it on the other side of island when i was a teen. Quite a bit around here, neighbors grow it on chain link fences and that's where I got my seeds several years ago. One of the pods had just ripened (split open. seeds go airborn on silky "feathers"). As my son was early grade-school we would often plant seeds we'd find into pots to see what would happen. I had not expected these to germinate but all we planted grew. Kept them it pots several years then finally planted along fence (about 6' apart). Lots of flowers right now. blooms many times throughout the year. 1st pod on the vine. If you have pod, let it ripen. must be hundreds of seeds laying flat and ready for the wind to take them. coolest thing.

On May 6, 2004, bojar from Wroclaw,
wrote:

Like in the case of robin3's plant, the one I grow produced some kind of fruit that's hanging right now on a stem. It's dark green, a bit avocado-like looking, but with a rut like in a plum. The plant is planted indoors in full sun (south-east located window), and produces 20-30 flowers at one time, even in winter.

On May 3, 2004, tweety24311 from Rumson, NJ wrote:

I purchased the stephanotis back in February on clearance at my local flower shop. They put it on clearance because it had no more flowers. It is very cold here through winter and I kept it indoors until recently. It got new leaves while in the house. And now that I put it on our sun porch, the plant just took off and started growing more leaves. I love it!! I fertilize it about once a month. It is very easy to grow and amazingly accepts the colder climate.

On Mar 17, 2004, kellypacificcoa from Dana Point, CA wrote:

I have had good luck growing mine in a large pot, and giving it a climbing structure.It is in a cool pot with bright indirect light. I get more blooms off the part of the plant that receives some direct sun for part of the day.I have seen this plant do very well planted in the ground, and is spectacular growing on patio covers. It definitely needs a place to wrap its tendrils around and will grow, grow, grow. As a florist we use this in wedding bouquets, and is a favorite of brides.Also in winter I cut back on watering it and it seems to bloom even better. Cut worms sometimes start getting in flower clusters and starting eating away at them, other than that I have had very little pest problems.

My "Bridal Bouquet Vine" is producing minimal flowers yet three seed-producing pods this year. I cut one pod and have kept it in my kitchen not knowing what to do with it, and one remains on the vine. (The first one I noticed I cut off thinking it was some cucumber or something, ha ha!) I've now read that you are let the pods "dry" on the vine prior to harvest, but not sure I know when to harvest.

On Sep 4, 2003, cadream from Rancho Palos Verdes, CA wrote:

Grows boldly spreads nicely and flowers generously (in late summer) on trellis against an east-facing wall in our coastal climate. Occasional trouble from scale, which appears to invite ants and spiders, but otherwise hardy and lovely. Tried first in a pot, but much more successful in the ground. Blossoms are deliciously fragrant.

On Aug 2, 2003, Jeansgarden from Goleta, CA wrote:

North-facing plant grows like a weed in a wonderful eight foot arch above my entryway. People are floored by its fragrance in the summer. Does not like the winter but with a little pruning in the spring puts out tons of new growth and never really looks bad, just some leaf dieback during the coldest months.

Interestingly, the same plant planted on the south facing side of this entryway has died back twice in the winter. I guess "location, location, location" applies to this as well. Fertilized when I remember (approximately every two months) with a slow-release fertilizer for acid-loving plants such as gardenia and azalea.

I have hundreds and hundreds of flowers on this plant. At some points this summer it was hard to see the green leaves for the flowers. read more ! A very worthwhile plant, and one that is easy to care for. No pests noted. Kept constantly moist in summer, watered sparingly in winter.

We found this species at our specialty flower farm and loved the fragrance and blooms. We live in western Washington state and therefore must keep this plant indoors. However it has grown to approximately 8-1/2 feet tall in a large ceramic planter and has thrived for the past four months. It has recently stopped blooming and some of the leaves have turned yellow. I believe we may have an infestation of some sort and will be consulting with a local plant specialist to see if there is a fix for this problem. This is our new favorite plant and hope to save it.

On Jun 10, 2003, ashkebird from San Diego, CA wrote:

I can't believe I'm the first to comment on this WONDERFUL plant! If you're lucky enough to live in USDA Zone 10, where it doesn't get near freezing, this plant grows like a weed outdoors. It especially likes a north- or east- facing wall against the house, or in areas where it gets part sun or morning sun only.

If planted in full sun, the leaves get a bit crisp, but it will bloom like a pro. And its the blooms which are fantastic. Light to medium strength jasmine fragrance and for me, they start in summer and last through early winter, providing the thick heavy white waxy flowers are commonly found in wedding bouquets.

If I lived elsewhere, and had a good east or even west or part southern window exposure, I would DEFINITELY try and grow this as a houseplant. read more . It thrives with no care outside my house, where it isn't even watered or ever fertilized on the north side period. (And we get very little natural rain, on an annual basis.) This is an amazingly tough plant, with beautiful foliage and if it gets enough light, lovely flowers.

The only challenge might be the long rambling vines. So let it wander all around the windows! Or over a fence or house wall. I have gotten seed pods off of the flowers, about two a year, that I think a sphinx moth might have pollinated. hope everyone enjoys this plant as much as I have!


The fact that it is a tropical plant should give you an idea of what the Madagascar jasmine is going to need to be happy. Stability is essential. Remember that in these parts of the world, there isn’t a lot of variability with temperature. Moisture, of course, is another story. The plant isn’t going to like a lot of change in its world.

Light and Temperature

If you want those fragrant blooms, you’ll have to provide the Madagascar jasmine with plenty of bright indirect light. Outside, it’ll enjoy full sun to partial shade as long as it isn’t direct sunlight. Its leaves will turn yellow if it isn’t getting enough light.

It prefers temperatures on the warmer side during the spring and summer. Temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal. Cooler temperatures in fall and winter are fine too. If it gets too cold, flower buds will drop.

Moisture Needs

As expected with a tropical plant, the Madagascar jasmine likes it humid, especially during flowering. It likes the relative humidity in the range of 60 to 70 percent. If it falls much below that figure, you should mist it regularly, taking care to avoid wetting its flowers. You can also add humidity using a shallow tray of water or by grouping plants in one section in the room.

If you mist your plant, you should use distilled water, especially if you have hard water. The Madagascar jasmine prefers acidic soil conditions. Hard water will change the soil chemistry over time and affect its long-term survival. You can also use rainwater that you can collect with a rain barrel. Rain is slightly acidic naturally, so you needn’t treat it in any way.

Soil Conditions and Fertilizing

Soil acidity should range between 5.6 to 6.5 pH. If you’re planting it outdoors, you should test the soil first. You can then amend garden soils with compost if necessary to get it in the proper range. For houseplants, you can use a soil mixture specially formulated for acid-loving plants. You can add perlite or sand to the mix to improve drainage to avoid root rot.

You will need to repot the Madagascar jasmine occasionally to keep up with its growth. However, despite its size, it can tolerate it if conditions get a bit snug. Regarding fertilizing, you can use a standard mix and apply it every two weeks while the plant is in flower and growing. You can cut back during the winter months both with fertilizing and watering.

This video from the University of Illinois Extension walks you through the process of repotting houseplants.

Fitting In

The biggest concern you’ll have with the Madagascar jasmine is space. Outdoors, you’ll need to use a trellis or stakes to keep it upright. You should also provide shelter to protect it from strong winds. It should play nice with other plants in your garden or home. And it is safe in a home with pets. While some plants in this family are poisonous, the Madagascar is not toxic to pets.

Special Care Notes

We said earlier that this plant is a challenge. That is because some plants are reluctant to bloom. You can get your plant to flower by replicating its natural conditions. In addition to light and moisture, you can coax it to bloom with a cool spell during the winter. Many plants need this trigger to flower the following season.

Make sure the temperature is above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Other possible causes are a lack of adequate light. However, the Madagascar jasmine doesn’t like to be moved, so take the time to choose a good location from the start. It may also fail to flower if it’s not getting enough moisture or the temperatures are too cool. Just like Goldilocks, everything must be just right.

Pruning

You may need to prune the plant occasionally, preferably before flowering in the spring. It’s a good time to get rid of bare or damaged branches and to tidy up its appearance. It won’t necessarily encourage new growth, so it’s more for space considerations and aesthetics. You can cut weak or side shoots for a fuller look.

The Madagascar jasmine is a handsome plant with both beautiful foliage and attractive, fragrant flowers. It is a stunning addition that will bring a tropical feel to the right space. Though it may take time to flower, you’ll be rewarded for your attention to care and patience with its lovely floral display.


How to Take Stem Tip Cuttings

1. Take cuttings in spring using stems that grew the year before. Prepare pot or propagator with equal parts peat moss and coarse sand or perlite. 2. Choose shoot or stem tip with 2 pairs of healthy leaves and a growing point. Cut off below 2nd pair

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3. Prepare cuttings by trimming off stem just below a leaf.

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4. Remove the lowest pair of leaves.

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5. Dip the cut surface in hormone rooting powder. Shake of the excess.

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6. Make small holes in potting mixture around edge with stick or pencil.

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7. Insert cutting so that end of stem is at bottom of hole and leaves are level with potting mixture.

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8. Water and cover with plastic bag supported by wire. Remove cover for 5 minutes a day and never let potting mixture dry out. Keep at 70 degrees F (21 degrees C). Remove after 21 days. When cuttings are growing well, re-pot in normal mixture.


Read This to Find How to Take Proper Care of a Bridal Veil Plant

Bridal veil plants have delicate white flowers, and lush green foliage. This article tells you how to take proper care to keep it hale and hearty for a very long time.

Bridal veil plants have delicate white flowers, and lush green foliage. This article tells you how to take proper care to keep it hale and hearty for a very long time.

Bridal veil plants are herbaceous and perennial vine houseplants, which grow in abundance in any tropical and humid region. They grow to a height of approximately 18 feet, and respond well to warm temperatures of minimum 55º F and fertile, well-drained soil. Their three-petaled, fragrant, white flowers, that blossom in clusters from spring to autumn, are a delight to watch. The plants have thick, awl-shaped, leathery foliage growing on slender cascading stems. Also known as Stephanotis floribunda, they also have popular names like Madagascar Jasmine and Stephanotis. Bridal veil plant care is important for the healthy growth of this flowering houseplant.

Caring for the Bridal Veil Plant

Every plant responds positively to good care and attention. So, here are a few tips on caring for this indoor tropical plant:

  • Bridal veil loves to grow on bright spots with moderate heat. The temperature should be between 50º-70º F. So, plant it away from direct sunlight. It can be conveniently planted in indoor or outdoor garden trellis.
  • This plant requires a warm temperature and well-drained soil. So, make sure the pot, used for planting it, has high quality humus soil and sufficient drainage holes. If it is planted outdoors, they need to be watered with at least 2 buckets of water every 2-3 weeks. The soil should not be over-soaked, as it could kill the roots of the plant. Also, there should be a sufficient time interval, wherein the soil is allowed to dry before the next watering cycle.
  • In humid seasons, make it a point to spray the bridal veils, to mist them mildly. In winters, protect them from cold by keeping the pots near the window, where they will have easy access to warmer temperatures. In summers, they can be kept indoors, so they remain protected from direct sunlight and heat.
  • The flowering season of bridal veils is from spring to autumn (March to September). Hence, keep the soil a little dry during winters. It is also the resting period for this plant, as it prepares itself for the next flowering season.
  • Pruning bridal veils is an important activity. It helps the plant grow as a compact and healthy flowering plant. Remove all the dead wood and dry leaves accumulated near it regularly. This ensures that the plant is not affected by the menace of aphids and mealybugs.
  • Any gardening activity is incomplete without fertilization. It is a must to fertilize bridal veil plants regularly with all-purpose, water soluble fertilizers from February to September, on a weekly basis.

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A very important point to be noted is that these plants must be preferably grown in open spaces or garden trellis, providing them room to grow and twine as they want. After all, they belong to the vine family.

Tahitian Bridal Veil

Tahitian bridal veils are beautiful, tropical plants, that find a laudable place in homes or in hanging baskets in your garden trellis. They are the natives of Jamaica, but can be grown in any tropical, humid climatic regions. They are best known for their refined leafage, which has purple undersides and olive tops. Waxy, fragrant, white flowers grow over the foliage. These plants are also known as gibasis geniculata. Like normal bridal veils, they too need filtered light, without direct exposure to sun.

They can be initially grown in 2.5 inch pots, and can be later transferred to larger baskets, once they start growing big. Stem cutting can be done in spring, which is the best time for propagation of any type of plant cuttings. If you are interested in preparing the soil for Tahitian bridal veils, all you need is 1 portion garden soil, I portion perlite, 1 portion humus, and a pinch of lime. Put this mixture in a pot having sufficient drainage holes. You may also add some pebbles and stones to retain the moisture of the soil.

Bridal veil plants make beautiful, indoor and hanging houseplants. Their white flowers are also popularly seen as a part of bridal bouquets and wedding flowers. So, no wonder how they derived their name.


Watch the video: Stephanotis Care and Handling


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